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Thread: Hi all

  1. #1

    Hi all

    Hi all

    Got myself a rev 4 t bar import a few years ago and yesterday got myself a 3vzfe to go in

    I plan on stripping the 3vzfe right down and replacing everything

    Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Got the axillarys off and the cam belt cover and one zorst manifold

    Only things I need to sort is the mount, afm and intake pipework work out what clutch flywheel I need and the exhaust down pipe doing

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  4. #4
    Spend so far

    £350 for the engine
    £70 van hire and diesel to collect
    £20 vht paint
    £10 engine degreaser
    Engine stand £35
    Gasket kit £80
    Head bolts £30
    Big end shells £25
    Cam belt and tensioners £90
    Piston ring tool £10
    Honing tool £10
    Engine assembly paste stuff £10
    Afm £40
    Piston rings £30
    Oil pump £40
    Oil pick up £30
    Thrust washers £10
    Big end bearings £80
    Down pipe £70
    Flywheel £35
    Spark plugs £20
    Ht leads £30
    Ecu £80
    Engine mount £65
    Luk clutch £80
    Turbo pressure plate £35
    Head skims £120
    Valve spring compressor £10
    Thermostat £10
    Oil filter £10
    Dizzy cap £25
    Rotor arm £10
    Coolant hoses £20
    Silicone hoses £20
    various bolts £10


    total cost £1610


    To purchase
    Main bearings

    Rev counter or mod the mr2 one
    Got loads of missing bolts off the sump so will replace them all



    Think that's it? Have I missed anything that would be worth replacing?


    Had a few hours spare today so started to remove the flaking paint from the manifold cover and alternator and clean up so will repaint them with vht paint

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  5. #5
    Looking forward to seeing the progress on this.
    Im not sure if anyone specifically makes the downpipes for v6 conversions. would be handy if they do but i think you will probably either need to take it to a shop or make one yourself.
    You have mentioned big end shells but you probably want to change the mains at the same time.
    Not sure if its worth changing the little ends/gudgeon pins aswell.
    I would get a deglazer if your removing the pistons and maybe a reamer if they have a step in the bore.
    Depending on how far your going they you can get the crank and cam journals polished.
    If your cleaning lots of parts then you cant beat a sand / soda blaster. Just make sure if your doing parts that go on or in the engine e.g. cam covers that you use soluble media (soda) or that you can definatly get it all out.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the tips

    Yeah mains should be on the list too!

    Gota add a flywheel and clutch to the list

    Been told turbo flywheel machined to match the bolt pattern a turbo pressure plate and na clutch plate



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  7. #7
    Got the intake off and the intake manifold and the rocker covers

    Next step is to undo the crank and the cam bolts

    Any tips?

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  8. #8
    I found the best way to remove the crank bolt is to fit a couple of flywheel bolts back in and then slide a bar between them, rotate crank till the bar is against one of the stand arms and use a long pry bar on the crank bolt. I often found that applying pressure ton the bolt and hitting the socket will a hammer helps kinda like an impact wrench.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Hi mate. Good luck with the build. That engine you’ve got there I saw up for sale last year when I was looking for a mock up one for my turbo set up. If I remember right, it was advertised as having a blown head gasket because a coolant hose had come off the engine. So I would make sure the heads get skimmed and checked. I have a na flywheel that I milled out to the correct pcd if you want it and also a set of down pipes that I dont need because im building my turbo set up. They’re nothing special just the standard 3vz pipes welded to a mr2 b pipe. But they worked for me for 16months. Handy if you want to run it a bit before getting some free flowing ones built.

  10. #10
    To get the crank off your better using an impact gun. Or you could make a tool to hold the pulley. Its just a flat bar with 2 holes for some bolts to pass through into the crank pulley and one in the middle of them to allow you to put a socket on the crank pulley bolt.

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