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Thread: Hi all

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by byrney1984 View Post
    Hi mate. Good luck with the build. That engine you’ve got there I saw up for sale last year when I was looking for a mock up one for my turbo set up. If I remember right, it was advertised as having a blown head gasket because a coolant hose had come off the engine. So I would make sure the heads get skimmed and checked. I have a na flywheel that I milled out to the correct pcd if you want it and also a set of down pipes that I dont need because im building my turbo set up. They’re nothing special just the standard 3vz pipes welded to a mr2 b pipe. But they worked for me for 16months. Handy if you want to run it a bit before getting some free flowing ones built.
    That's news to me! He told me it had been sat in his garage for a few years and no idea on condition or millage etc but turns over by hand freely and has compression but hey I'm rebuilding anyway!

    I've got a spare na flywheel I could get machined.. But was told I need a turbo flywheel? Is it just the bolt pcd that needs machining? My dads an engineer so could do that for me

    I'll take you up on the downpipe mate, pm me your PayPal and what you want for it and we can sort that





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  2. #12
    A busy morning of cleaning and getting one of the heads off

    Looks in God condition but will get it skimmed anyway

    Cleaned up the fuel rails from that nasty paint and started on the rocker covers

    Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    You can use a na flywheel machined out as long as your pressure plate is a na one. But i went through 2 LUK clutches in 8 months. Even shattered the dampening springs on one. But I have done a bit of work on heads etc. If you use a 3sgte flywheel machined out then you will need to use a turbo pressure plate. Because the pressure plate holes are different between na and turbo. As your using a s54 box you’ll have to use a na clutch plate because it has 20 teeth to match the splines on the gearbox input shaft. Turbo boxes have 21 splines. I just fitted a turbo flywheel and pressure plate with a na clutch plate. in the end. Hence why i have a spare na flywheel.



    Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

  4. #14
    Ah cool OK, I've got a spare na clutch so would make life easier but better in the long run just to go turbo flywheel

    Better try and find a turbo flywheel now....



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  5. #15
    Ebay. I think i paid £60 for one posted with a clutch kit on it. I had to harrass the guy but I got a bargain in the end lol

  6. #16
    Looking good!

    If you didn't get the crank bolt off yet, here's how I do it.

    One good tug on a breaker bar and it's off.....


  7. #17
    That would work if I had a flywheel

    I'll bodge something up today to hold the crank in place

    Just ordered piston rings, main bearings, oil pump, injector seals and thrust washer

    Need to source a turbo flywheel really, got an na one but heard of the na pressure plates not being good enough

    Would also like to replace the alternator bushes and refurb that too

    But today's plan is to get the crank bolt undone and get the 2nd head off and clean up the terrible paint job and start again

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  8. #18
    You can bolt the N/A one back on if you need to crack the bolt.

    I've done a few V6 swaps, I mostly use LUK N/A clutch kits. c.£70 on eBay / Amazon. Never had any issues, although if you were planning on making more power, spending more on a decent performance clutch is a real good idea.

    My next build is a 1mz in my Shitbox Two (long overdue) and I've got an LUK arriving Monday.

    But as with the comments above, some people have had a negative experience, but a lot depends on driving style, what you do with your car etc.

    C.

  9. #19
    I may do that then


    Got the other head off and it's just a case of cleaning up then

    Bottom end looks good but gonna replace everything for piece of mind

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  10. #20
    This is how I cracked the bolt with it on the stand since you probably can't get the flywheel back on.
    The bar is locked between opposite flywheel bolts and the stand arm. Keeps it unmoving whilst you remove the bolt.

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